Western fashion brands find India an alluring market, yet mistaking cultural nuances can lead to expensive errors
In the ever-evolving world of fashion, a significant shift is taking place as major Western brands are increasingly collaborating with Indian designers and incorporating Indian cultural heritage into their designs. This growth is driven by a rising middle class, increased urbanization, and a new generation of brand-conscious, internationally minded young consumers.
Recent years have seen several notable collaborations. Louis Vuitton, under creative director Pharrell Williams, showcased Indian-inspired silhouettes like kurtas and Nehru-collar jackets in their Men's Fall-Winter 2025 collection. The collection, set designed by Indian architect Bijoy Jain, paid homage to Indian fashion and culture, integrating traditional aesthetics into a Paris fashion show setting.
Dior took this collaboration a step further in 2023, holding a pre-fall show in Mumbai in collaboration with the Chanakya atelier. The show prominently featured authentic Indian embroidery and craftsmanship, highlighting Indian artisanal work on the runway. Prada, after controversy sparked by sandals resembling traditional Indian Kolhapuri chappals at Milan Men's Fashion Week, has since partnered formally with Indian sandal artisans, aiming to recognise and involve the original Indian artisans genuinely in their supply chain.
Nike has also joined the trend, collaborating with the Indian brand NorBlack NorWhite to create performance wear inspired by Indian cultural elements such as the ancient art of bandhani (tie-dye). The collection included apparel and footwear that drew on authentic Indian handloom techniques from Gujarat, blending global athletic wear with Indian heritage.
Indian designers like Tarun Tahiliani, known for blending Indian fabrics and traditional techniques with Western fashion styles, have been influential in bringing Indian aesthetic sensibilities to global luxury fashion.
The collaborations range from direct partnerships with Indian artisans to Western brands drawing inspiration from Indian textiles, crafts, and silhouettes. However, controversies have arisen around proper credit and cultural appropriation versus appreciation. For many, the issue boils down to respect for the creators, the culture, and the heritage that originated the designs.
India's luxury market is projected to expand dramatically, from $7.73 billion in 2023 to $11.3 billion by 2028. The Indian luxury consumer is diverse, including second-gen industrialist families, first-gen digital entrepreneurs, artists, and global citizens. Accusations of cultural appropriation have intensified in recent years, with many Indian people demanding acknowledgement of their cultural legacy.
Frustration over cultural appropriation has spilled onto social media platforms like TikTok, where South Asians have called out brands like Reformation and H&M for designs resembling traditional Indian garments. Prada, after criticism, acknowledged that the sandals in their Spring-Summer 2026 collection were "inspired by traditional Indian footwear."
In response to the controversy, Prada met with artisanal footwear manufacturers in India to discuss potential opportunities for future collaboration. Dior's runway show at Mumbai's Gateway of India was widely hailed as a respectful homage to India, with its collection featuring motifs deeply rooted in Indian tradition and craftsmanship.
For Indian fashion designers, this wave of collaboration and recognition is a significant step towards global consciousness. Western celebrities like Cardi B, Zendaya, and Kim Kardashian have been seen wearing designs by Indian designers, further increasing the visibility of Indian fashion on the global stage.
As the fashion industry continues to evolve, it is clear that the future holds a more inclusive and respectful approach to cultural heritage, with collaborations that emphasise authentic engagement with Indian heritage by involving local designers and craftspeople directly.
- The collaborations between Western brands and Indian designers in the fashion industry are not only expanding the reach of Indian fashion, but also acknowledging the significant role of Indian cultural heritage in creating new styles.
- In the business world of fashion and beauty, luxury brands like Louis Vuitton, Dior, Prada, and Nike are making a conscious effort to respect and engage with Indian artisans and traditions, redefining their brand's aesthetic while showcasing the country's rich cultural heritage.
- In the realm of lifestyle and finance, the growing interest in Indian fashion among Western celebrities and brands is resulting in a dramatic increase in the Indian luxury market, fostering a new wave of fashion-forward trade relations and cultural exchanges.
